Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Seed Germination: One Part Science/One Part Dirty Fingernails

Native Plant propagation is always a challenge, especially when it comes to germinating the few precious seeds you might have. When trying to get milkweed species to germinate, there is a lot of uncharted territory.
Some recommend soaking seeds in warm water, some recommend cold stratification. I have tried both with mixed results. Seems to me observation is the best way to start. When tracking plants in their native habitats see what they are growing in. Is the soil wet or dry, is it sand, humus or clay? Now just because it works well in nature doesn't necessarily mean it will do the same in a 1 gallon pot or a seed tray. Try using the sand that a typical scrub milkweed grows in. Water it well and you get a brick in a gallon pot, or a wet cap with a desert underneath in a seed tray. You need the porosity and the ability to hold moisture, but the actual soil the plant grows in isn't going to work in close quarters. Try various mixes, using peat, perlite, vermiculite, sand or even kitty litter made from recycled newspaper. The seed or plant wont know or mind what it is as long as it behaves like the environment it is used to. This includes pH, moisture, porosity and in some cases heat retention. Potting soil is fine for herbs and store brought seeds, but it rarely works for native milkweed. It retains too much water, hardens or dries out too quickly. Some seeds can take up to 45 days to germinate, that's a lot of time to try to juggle the factors that a seed needs. If you use off the shelf mixes you can end up with water logged, rotten seeds or dried out seeds. Try some mixes, put them in trays or pots with no seeds, water them, watch them, test them. If you think it will work, try risking some seed. All of this also applies to cuttings as well.

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